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THE NEW MOMOFUKU PhiladelphiaGrub Street New York considers the analogy suspect. But not because Zahav isn't great.
Michael Solomonov does for Israeli cooking what David Chang does for Asian cooking: He transforms traditional, not-so-exciting dishes, using one-of-a-kind creative flourishes and unlikely flavor combinations. And in doing so, Solomonov’s restaurant Zahav creates food that simultaneously tastes familiar and unlike anything you’ve ever eaten.
A simply prepared salad with Israeli persimmon (sweet), Bulgarian feta (creamy), green olives (salty) and endive (bitter). Duck hearts with chicken-liver dirty rice. A spicy and tart Moroccan fish stew with tomatoes and peppers.
This is modern comfort food at its finest. At $36 for five courses, it’s a steal too. Solomonov recently opened a barbecue restaurant, with proper versions of Texas brisket and ribs. Yes, that's right: One Israeli restaurant, one pork-a-palooza. No rules, no limits? Works for us (237 Saint James Place, 215-625-8800).
In early 2010, Chef Garces will debut his sixth Philadelphia venture, Garces Trading Company (1111 Locust Street, 215.574.1099), a gourmet market and cafe.So there's that.
Open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. until 10 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., the multi-purpose space will feature a host of house-made and imported foods under the Garces Trading Company label.
Other features, including an on-site bakery and the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (PLCB)'s first boutique wine shop, will further distinguish Garces Trading Company as the city's only all-in-one culinary destination.
Most Americans think of the cheesesteak as Philly's signature sandwich. But there has been a slow realization around the country that the City of Brotherly Love also deserves praise for a sandwich that would never include Cheez Whiz.And how.
The roast pork hoagie taps into Philadelphia's Italian American roots. From Italy comes the thinly sliced meat, the shards of aged provolone and the broccoli rabe. From America comes the super-sized portion and the everything-is-better-on-a-bun portability. The result transcends either place: It's a balance of meaty richness, sharp cheese and spicy, bitter greens that is greater than the sum of its parts.