Monday, December 07, 2009

Laban Annoints The Village Whiskey Burger As The City's Best

Craig Laban has a new favorite burger: the $9 Village Burger at Village Whiskey. (Note: not the $24 Whiskey King Burger.)
Add to this mix a splash of super-chef Jose Garces, and rest assured that the burger itself has also been given its gastronomic due. Ground in-house daily from grass-fed, naturally raised Maine beef, with different grind sizes for the various cuts in the blend, and an ingenious shaping technique that results in patties with a perfect end-grain (as opposed to one big bouncy smush), this is now my single favorite Philly burger.

One can top it with shaved white Alba truffles or creamy pads of seared foie gras, or a cool salad of sweet lump crab tossed with horseradish crème fraîche. But such gilding, aside from some cave-aged Vermont cheddar or smoky Oregon bleu, is hardly necessary. The liver, in fact, actually gets in the way of the primal satisfaction this $9 wonder already gives. With its ideal seasoning, meaty tenderness, and butter-crisped bun, its flavor lingers on my taste buds with the all-day mineral shine of a far more expensive cut of beef. The sweet amber sting of whiskey only intensifies the hum.
Two bells for Village Whiskey overall.

Related:
Village Whiskey - Jose Garces' latest tempts with fine spirits and a burger that is Philadelphia's best. Good luck getting [ Philadelphia Inquirer ]
Craig LaBan's Favorite Burgers - 2007 [ Philadelphia Inquirer ]

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