Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Craig Laban Stands Up For Good/Local/Craft Beer, Challenges Pub & Kitchen To Do The Same

In his positive review of Pub & Kitchen this week, Craig Laban did find time to pointedly criticize the bar for having too many douchebag beers for its own good.
Co-owners Ed Hackett and Dan Clark, meanwhile, have already transformed the dour and dingy old Chaucer's into the vibrant neighborhood hangout that any good taproom should be. It's devilishly noisy, especially if you don't snag a church pew in the cozy nook that doglegs off the back dining room. But there's an undeniable pulse of energy to this bilevel space, with its welcoming new cafe windows, that draws all walks of locals to this outpost near upscale Rittenhouse and gentrifying Graduate Hospital. It's completely magnetic, despite some early flaws.

For one, the brew list is still too limited to measure up to the city's better bars. There have certainly been some stellar choices on tap, the Offshore IPA, Allgäuer doppelbock, and Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale among them. I also loved the low-fizz licorice-root smack of a Yard's Washington Porter drained from a countertop keg at a Friday-night firkin event. But the presence on such a small list of so many commercial beers, from Miller Lite to Corona, is a glaring shortcoming in a city obsessed with craft beer.
True that.

Pub & Kitchen - Chef Jonathan McDonald turns his enthusiasm and talent on gastropub fare, leaving kitchen gimmickry behind [ Philadelphia Inquirer ]

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